Eighties when you hold us… With the image of many New Yorkean designers, the duet Proenza Schouler left enivrer by the reminiscences of the Eighties. Less transcendent than in the past but nevertheless not deprived of blows of glare, the presentation Proenza Schouler delivers a cloakroom in two times to us…
Having more accustomed us to the collections knack and conceptual that with the commercial rigour, Proenza Schouler have surprised their audience by dividing their show into two parts, one being posed out of spearhead of the springtide, the other showing itself much more pragmatic.
Sculptural, hieratic, between Jerry Hall and Madonna, the mannequins raise high size and disproportionate breadths. These last, as hemmed of a matter surplus, oversize a silhouette already extremely dominating. The palette is also combined with the tastes of the eighties: it is dominated by the black & white, while being sometimes intersected with a total look purple or being surmounted by a detail flashy.
In addition, that they are the fuzzy long jackets, the girdled combinations or the sexy boleros all, are zippés of vinyl and are supported. These parts compose the first part of the collection, being used a priori to pose the codes of them. However, following this setting in relatively promising mouth, we would have liked to be put into orbit by a succession of looks moving away from the quotation first, as can do it so well Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. Disappointed hope: instead of continuing crescendo, the collection stagnates…
Admittedly, it is still enamelled small strong parts such this micro leather long-line bra revealing the navel (as it should be from now on, cf Alexander Wang), this enluminé bikini or these leather gloves way musketeer, but the unit – which slices neither frankly towards an obvious ready-made clothes, nor worms of the products flirtant with the aesthetic genius – the observer between two water leaves.
Following the show, only the zippée combination having opened the festivities, the Courtney Love lipstick and the worked breadths trail us in the head. It is thus not satisfied which we already think with desire of the future collection autumn/winter of the duet. By hoping that this last by then will have decided miser again on its creativity, leaving side the commercial aspect of the adventure…
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