With their collection spring/be 2009, the two dear sisters of international criticism are not descended from their pedestal. In continuity of last season – and yet without annoying the public – Kate and Laura Mulleavy delivered a delicate cloakroom, reflected, and finally more and more succeeded…
Their ultra beginning seams in a New Yorkean fashion week very centered on the casual wear had defrayed the chronicle and had enchanted Anna Wintour. Since, the two ex-teachers present each season of the collections between rock’n'roll and refinement, which do not have of cease of envoûter the press mode.
The show, revealing their vision of the next summer, begins like that from the former season: in monochromic total look… However, at Rodarte, the monochromic one lives like nowhere elsewhere: built containing multiple matters (openwork, opaque, or translucent), it gains in fragile luminosity.
If volumes point out those of the last show, the matters effects (resulting from a thorough textile research) are to be cut the breath. The time when the latter cannibalisaient the silhouette is well finished: Rodarte managed with this collection to mix creativity and harmony, lyrical flight and contemporary elegance. Their work on the human body does not have thus anything any more the stylistic effect not controlled, quite to the contrary: their lacerated signal evoking the rib cage thwarts the anecdotic one while being essential in strong and desirable part…
Moreover, the dresses milfoils – become the trademark of the duet – are still reinvented still and. Mixing diaphanous muslin, Ankara iridescent and fine leather strips (the whole in let us tons powdered), these toilets evoke a dramatically modern fairy-like daydream. Silhouettes very of mesh vêtues are followed from there, knitted in a random way and reinventing the concept of sexy…
If this fashion week were prolix in collections rock’n'roll, Rodarte are the only ones to insufflate with the kind a true breathing. Furnished with chains, net or leather, the pace nets wants to be revolted while preserving an intense beauty, a such fairy small bell destroy. These parts resolutely darker composing the second part of the show are offered in monochromic coal, thus revealing their exquisite construction like their obvious topicality.
The final one, in muslin tie and dye moulded with virtuosity, completes a show recalling us to which point the fashion can be carrying emotion…
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