While asking Lady Gaga to animate her evening after show, Marc Jacobs – in addition to the fact of surfer on bankable of the young woman will have – continued to unroll the wire of the started history before a few hours, at the time of her procession. On the catwalk it is indeed telescoped various and false influences impudeurs, composing a show with the theatrical pace…
He says to have of it enough the nails and leather… There is perhaps the reason of the U-turn operated by Marc Jacobs for her collection spring/be 2010. In a little more than 50 passages, Marc Jacobs thus swept any reminiscence 80 ‘ S with the profit of a kaleidoscope of references in turn cabarets, japonisantes or Yankees.
And if the models post a make up worthy of the great names of Kabuki, the high chignon of the samurais and the slippers platform of Geishas, it is not in so far as their costumes want to be traditional. Indeed, if many silhouettes are seen girdled using a fine leather bond pointing out the koshihimos closing the kimonos, Marc Jacobs prefers to celebrate the modern Japanese fashion while paying homage to the work of Rei Kawakubo, borrowing to him for the occasion her jackets from the circular hives.
This known as, in true ace of the cocktails fashion, Marc Jacobs is not obstructed to go to draw from other registers the ingredients of its estival collection…
It is inspired thus by environment cabaret, multiplying that and there the hives, wheels and other pastilles clinquantes, which it sometimes moderates of winks to the American codes casual. Without speaking about the reflexion around the retro linen room, which regularly invites as a part of top coming dévergonder from fine politically correct woollen articles.
Thereafter, the genesis of creations seems increasingly difficult to decipher. And if one perceives there sometimes one fallen Paul Poiret, an allusion to the work of Miuccia Prada (see here) or some details roots expensive with the creator, all mixes to compose a new unit.
By interfering the casualness an overcoat sportswear to long skirts with the glossed printed papers form (pointing out the warbling of the peacocks), by hyperbolisant the sarouels of the hero of film “the King and I” (see here) or by alternating overloaded looks of hives and silhouettes purified to the extreme, Marc Jacobs invite us, the time of a collection, to foresee the prolific production of his surdocumentée imagination…
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